Bay, Baja, Mexico
Moment of Bliss: A Blessed Landfall
We had left Cabo San Lucas in the middle of the night at 02300 because
the wind at the dock went down to a few knots, which indicated also
lower winds when rounding the infamous Cabo and Cabo Falso, which are
known for furious winds and seas.
And indeed, when we rounded the capes, the wind freshened to 20 knots
and the sea became very bumpy. However, after a few hours, conditions
improved and we had a good trip throughout the day and the night. The
next day, a marine layer was forming with dense fog and high humidity.
Visibility very limited. Our landfall was planned into a large bay:
Bahia Santa Magdalena, or Mag Bay for gringo sailors.
My morning watch started at 0600, which was the time when we came close
to the entrance of the bay. Slowly, as we approached the bay, the marine
layer started to lift and I could make out the profile of the wide entrance.
There were high cliffs on both sides of the entrance and a wide bay
behind, promising a safe anchorage.
As the fog lifted completely, I became very enchanted with the magnificent
view of the cliffs and the bay, as I sailed the boat into the bay. I
put on my tape with sailors’ songs and sang the old songs along with
the tape, full of joy and bliss, in the experience of this magic moment.
Hundreds of years ago this bay was a refuge for the Spanish galleons
which sailed from Acapulco to the Philippines loaded with copper, silver
and other trading goods, returning from the northern route with gold,
silk and spices. I could feel a sense of comradeship with the ancient
mariners, who plied the same waters with ships that could barely go
to weather and had none of the means on board which make our life underway
so easy: Watermaker, GPS, Single Side Band Radiotelephones, freezer
and fridges, autopilot, VHF etc.
Nevertheless, the mountains, wind and the ocean remain the same as
those enjoyed by those ancient mariners.