At the entrance to the cathedral three crosses had been raised, two already bearing statues of the condemned, the third, in the middle, empty, pending a re-enactment of the crucifixion.  Contemporary Christian music wafted through the park from the loudspeakers on the cathedral steps, adding a joyous background ambience.  Sitting on the bench and taking it all in, we remarked that it was truly a moment of bliss.


Jean Claude and Claudie enjoy the morning in the park.

Next came a walk through the colorful shopping arcade, with its abundance of hand-woven tapestries, handicrafts and clothing.  Negotiations typically resulted in 25 to 50% off the originally stated price.

After Gunter and I took a mid-day break back at the hotel, we met at our friends again at the Parque Central.  This time, the park was different.  The mood was hushed and expectant, as hundreds of would-be spectators packed the square, sitting on every curb and even on the steps to the cathedral.  Jean Claude wisely directed our group to a side-street hotel he had discovered earlier in the day.  It was located away from the crowds, but still on the evening procession route.  The hotel was full of antiques from Spanish colonial times, we walked around, then sat and relaxed until procession began to pass by. 

This time, the mood of the procession was somber.  Night had fallen and the participants and most of the observers were clad entirely in black.  A new carpet of cypress needles and petals lie the entire length of the street.  The advance guard walked on either side, swinging bowls of incense.  The mist swirled up into the night air.  The drama increased as wooden platforms representing the 14 stations of the cross were borne by methodically, yet rhythmically plodding  participants.


Somber Evening Procession.

We had dinner at the old hotel, surrounded by a décor of swords and medieval armament.  Somber and reflective, we discussed the suffering that Jesus went through to redeem mankind and how Peter had even asked to be crucified upside down.  We talked about death and dying. 

We will remember this very powerful day for the rest of our lives.

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